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All you need to know about Steven Hale and the world of watches

The movement, or calibre, of a watch is its heartbeat—the mechanism that drives its timekeeping functionality. When choosing a watch, understanding the differences between quartz and mechanical movements is essential.

The movement, or calibre, of a watch is its heartbeat—the mechanism that drives its timekeeping functionality. When choosing a watch, understanding the differences between quartz and mechanical movements is essential. Both types have unique characteristics, advantages, and limitations that cater to different preferences and lifestyles. This guide explores these two main watch movement types, providing insight into their mechanisms, history, and why they remain popular among collectors and enthusiasts.

What is a Watch Movement?

A watch movement refers to the internal mechanism that powers a watch and drives its hands to measure time. It also powers additional features, such as the date, chronograph, or moon phase complications. There are two primary types of watch movements:

  1. Quartz Movement
  1. Mechanical Movement, which is further divided into manual and automatic.

Quartz Movement

How Quartz Movements Work

Quartz movements are powered by a small battery, which sends an electrical charge to a quartz crystal. The crystal oscillates at a precise frequency of 32,768 times per second, creating consistent vibrations. These vibrations regulate the movement’s timekeeping mechanism, resulting in accurate and reliable performance.

History of Quartz Movements

Introduced in 1969 by Seiko with the Quartz Astron, quartz technology revolutionised the watch industry. Its affordability and precision posed a significant challenge to traditional mechanical watchmaking, leading to what is often referred to as the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s. During this period, many traditional watchmakers struggled to compete with the popularity of quartz watches.

Advantages of Quartz Movements

  1. Accuracy: Quartz watches are exceptionally accurate, losing or gaining only a few seconds per month.
  1. Low Maintenance: Since there are fewer moving parts, quartz watches require minimal servicing compared to mechanical ones.
  1. Affordability: Quartz watches are generally more affordable due to their simpler manufacturing process.
  1. Convenience: They require minimal interaction beyond battery replacement every few years.

Limitations of Quartz Movements

  • Lack of Tradition: Quartz lacks the historical craftsmanship and romanticism associated with mechanical movements.
  • Battery Dependence: The need for periodic battery replacements can be inconvenient.
  • Perceived Value: Quartz watches are often viewed as less prestigious than mechanical counterparts.

Mechanical Movement

Mechanical movements are the traditional engines of horology, relying on intricate craftsmanship and manual engineering. They are powered by a mainspring, which stores energy when wound and releases it gradually to drive the watch.

Manual Mechanical Movement

A manual movement requires the wearer to wind the crown regularly to tighten the mainspring. This winding process provides the stored energy needed to power the watch.

Advantages:

  • Connection to Tradition: Manual watches embody centuries of watchmaking heritage.
  • Slim Profiles: Manual movements are often slimmer than automatic ones, making them ideal for dress watches.
  • User Interaction: Regular winding creates a tactile and emotional connection with the watch.

Limitations:

  • Frequent Winding: Requires regular winding, which can be inconvenient for some users.
  • Delicate Mechanisms: Manual watches are more susceptible to wear if not wound correctly.

Automatic Mechanical Movement

Automatic, or self-winding, movements eliminate the need for manual winding by using a rotor that moves with the wearer’s wrist motion. The rotor winds the mainspring as the watch is worn, providing a continuous power supply.

Advantages:

  • Ease of Use: Eliminates the need for manual winding while still preserving mechanical precision.
  • Craftsmanship: Automatic watches showcase the same artisanal skill as manual movements.
  • Energy Efficiency: Automatic watches maintain their power reserve as long as they’re worn regularly.

Limitations:

  • Price: Automatic watches are often more expensive than quartz or manual counterparts.
  • Bulkiness: The rotor adds thickness to the movement, making automatic watches slightly bulkier.
  • Maintenance Needs: Automatic movements require regular servicing to maintain accuracy and performance.

Key Differences Between Quartz and Mechanical Movements:

Quartz:

Power Source Battery

Accuracy Extremely accurate

Maintenance Low (battery replacement)

Price Generally more affordable

Craftsmanship Minimal

User Interaction Minimal

Longevity Battery life-dependent

Mechanical (Manual/Automatic):

Power Source Mainspring

Accuracy May gain/lose a few seconds per day

Maintenance Requires regular servicing

Craftsmanship Often higher, especially for luxury brands

Craftsmanship High level of artisanal skill

User Interaction Regular winding or wearing required

Longevity Can last generations with proper care

Choosing the Right Movement for You

The decision between quartz and mechanical movements largely depends on personal preferences, lifestyle, and intended use. Here are some factors to consider:

When to Choose Quartz

  • For Everyday Use: Quartz watches are reliable and low-maintenance, making them ideal for daily wear.
  • For Affordability: If budget is a concern, quartz offers excellent accuracy at a fraction of the cost of mechanical watches.
  • For Minimal Interaction: Quartz watches require little effort beyond occasional battery replacements.

When to Choose Mechanical

  • For Craftsmanship: Mechanical watches represent the artistry and heritage of traditional watchmaking.
  • For Collectability: Collectors often favour mechanical movements due to their historical significance and longevity.
  • For Emotional Connection: Manual and automatic watches create a deeper bond through winding or regular wear.

The Role of Independent Watchmakers in Servicing Movements

Both quartz and mechanical watches benefit from professional maintenance to ensure their longevity and performance. Independent watch service centres like Steven Hale Watch Restoration (SHWR) provide specialised care for all types of movements. Whether it’s replacing a battery in a quartz watch or performing a full overhaul on a mechanical timepiece, SHWR’s expertise ensures your watch remains in top condition.

Final Thoughts

Understanding the differences between quartz and mechanical movements allows you to make an informed decision when purchasing a watch or caring for one you already own. Quartz movements excel in accuracy and convenience, while mechanical movements embody the artistry and tradition of horology. Whichever you choose, proper maintenance and servicing, such as those offered by Steven Hale Watch Restoration, are essential to preserving the beauty and functionality of your timepiece for years to come.

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I picked up my 64 year old watch today from Steven Hale after Rolex themselves referred me. I've waited 6 months to be reunited with it (due to it being a vintage), and I am beyond chuffed! I have previously taken the watch to a specialist but was turned away due to its age. But for the first time in years, the experts at Steven Hale have made it work like new. I applaud the excellent team of knowledgeable staff both in the workshop, but also in the showroom, who explained all my options in meticulous detail. This watch has been passed down three generations and I'm so pleased to have it back in full working order. I couldn't recommend Steven Hale enough for anyone with a special vintage watch, unsure of the best place to get it restored."

Vintage Rolex - Oscar S

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Vintage Rolex Oyster - Nigel F

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Dr Bakaya

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MARTIN

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"My great grand-father's Breguet was given to me by my father for my 21st birthday. 30 years later, post restoration by SHWR, it is in far better shape than I have ever seen it. SHWR's craftsmanship is immaculate. The firm is polite, professional and honest. Outstanding - I cannot recall another occasion when I have been so favourably impressed."

edward

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venessa

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"I had bought a 1970s Pepsi GMT at auction and it needed some work. The lume on the hands was breaking up. Rolex UK wanted some hilarious price and threatened to replace the hands with new ones if their work failed - all at my expense of course. Steven Hale and co managed to repair the hands and maintain the original patina of the 40 plus year old watch which was of course crucial! Highly recommended."

Johan

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"These are watch lovers and it shows. Their meticulous craftsmanship and expertise make them unique in London and I suspect that only in Switzerland may their equivalents be found. The experience of Steven Hale Watch Restoration begins with the talented and charming individuals who are client facing in South Molton Street and who instil a confidence that is consequently fully fulfilled. This firm represents unequalled talent in its field as well as exceptional client service. I have seldom recommended anyone with greater conviction."

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